In front of the showcase, her voice rose slightly.
"Does this suit my emerald?"
She pointed to the 440 Basic - Loaf Ring. Its design features a series of loaf shapes, inspired by sugarloaf-cut gemstones. Despite its simplicity, the piece is meticulously crafted with each facet requiring considerable effort.
She brought an emerald ring set in a platinum band. I was told it was given by her grandfather to her grandmother, and then inherited by her. She had kept it carefully stored, and hadn't had many opportunities to actually wear it.
Emerald rings often have a "very much a jewel" impression. She wanted it to be a piece that subtly peeks out from under a sleeve in everyday life, rather than being kept for special occasions.
Her murmured words, as she gazed at the Loaf Ring, were the beginning of this project.
When designing, the first thing I focused on was the stone itself. I don't just complete the design on paper. I keep the actual stone in hand, holding it up to the light to see which angle makes it look most beautiful.
"I want it to have more of a 'spiky' presence, to match the stone."
Based on this image, I arranged rectangular loaf shapes along the vertical flow. The angle of the points, the balance of sizes, the orientation of each piece—it was a process of making adjustments in 0.1mm increments, searching for a strength that wouldn't overpower the stone's presence, yet wouldn't be overshadowed by it. The resulting design is much more voluminous than existing Loaf rings. This was a result of wanting to create a powerful presence that wouldn't be overshadowed by the stone.
I also spent a lot of time on wearability. The part that touches the palm side of the finger was gradually thinned. I carefully adjusted the balance between visual strength and lightness on the finger, checking it repeatedly with my fingertips.
And there was one more thing I couldn't compromise on.
The engraving on the inside of the original ring. Precisely because the form was changing so much, there were things that should not change. I carefully re-engraved the same words in the same position. Even if the stone's design was new, I wanted the presence of her grandparents to remain unchanged inside it. That was my wish.
When she held the finished piece, she gazed at it silently for a while. Then, she gently traced the engraving on the inside with her finger.
"Even though the shape has changed, I can still tell it's the same stone."
If she felt that way, there could be no greater joy.
I believe it wasn't just the stone that remained unchanged through this reformation. From grandfather to grandmother, and from grandmother to the client. Even with a changed form, that connection would continue unbroken, adorning her finger for years to come.
"Even though the shape changed, I can now feel my grandfather and grandmother close to me."
Her words were the best answer. More than the stone itself, it was the time and connection between people that the stone had brought together. If I could help pass that on to the future, there could be no greater honor.
A single reform is built upon many small choices. Each of these has a reason. To dedicate time to confronting the stone. And to pay respect to the story that the stone carries. That is my approach to being entrusted with something precious.
Emerald Ring Reformation
Item: Ring
Material: K18YG
Gemstone: Emerald 0.94ct
Cost: 451,000 yen (tax included)
Production Period: Approximately 2 months
Design: Kanae Omori
Consultations for reforms and custom orders are available by appointment at the 440 showroom in Hanzomon, Tokyo. If you have any concerns or questions before your visit, please feel free to contact us via our official LINE.
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